Good question! You have a ball that you want to shoot out
of the gun but which pipe will I need?
Measure the ball and find the pipe that is just slightly larger than
the ball - or slightly smaller if the ball
has a little give to it. You want a snug fit but you don't
want to have to force the ball into the barrel - after
all we don't want to make a pipe bomb, we just want to launch a
ball. Look at the chart below for PVC
pipe size information. Lets say you have a ball that measures
1.5" diameter. Using the chart below you
can see that the best fit for this ball would be 1-1/2" schedule 40
pipe. The inside diameter is just slightly
larger than the ball.
Schedule 40
PVC
Schedule 80
PVC
Diameter
(inches)
O.D.
(inches)
Wall
Thickness
I.D.
Pressure
73°F
(psi)
Wall
Thickness
(inches)
I.D.
Pressure
73°F
(psi)
1/2
.840
.109
.602
600
.147
.526
850
3/4
1.050
.113
.804
480
.154
.722
690
1
1.315
.133
1.029
450
.179
.936
630
1 1/4
1.660
.141
1.360
370
.191
1.255
520
1 1/2
1.900
.145
1.590
330
.200
1.476
470
2
2.375
.154
2.047
280
.218
1.913
400
2 1/2
2.875
.203
2.445
300
.276
2.290
420
3
3.500
.216
3.042
260
.300
2.864
370
4
4.500
.237
3.998
220
.337
3.786
320
6
6.625
.280
6.031
180
.432
5.709
280
8
8.625
.322
7.941
160
.500
7.565
250
10
10.750
.365
9.976
140
.593
9.493
230
12
12.750
.406
11.888
130
.687
11.294
230
14
14.000
.438
13.072
130
.750
12.412
220
16
16.000
.500
14.936
130
.843
14.224
220
18
18.000
.562
16.809
130
.937
16.014
220
20
20.000
.593
18.743
120
1.031
17.814
220
24
24.000
.687
22.544
120
1.218
21.418
210
Markings PVC Schedule 40 and 80 pipe is
marked as prescribed in ASTM D-1785 to indicate
the manufacturer's
name or trademark, material designation code,
the nominal pipe size, the Schedule size with
the
pressure rating in PSI for water at 73ºF, the
ASTM designation number D-1785 and the NSF seal
for
potable water.
When constructing pneumatic spud guns it is
important to know the pressure ratings of the pipe you are
using. To maintain a safe environment always install a pop-off
regulator that will release excess pressure
when the rated pressure in the gun has exceeded the maximum
operating pressure.
Well, as most ballistic
professionals will tell you, you have to have a propellant. That is
the easy part, as
most propellants come in the form of aerosols such as Axe Body
Spray, Right Guard deodorant, Aqua
Net hairspray, starter fluid, and the list goes on and on. What most
people don’t know is that in order to
fire, the fuel also needs oxygen. A common assumption is that the
more aerosol you spray in to the
chamber the farther the ammo will go. This is not the case. You also
need the correct amount of oxygen
in the chamber at the correct ratio with any form of propellant
other then compressed air. Think about it.
How does a gas power engine work? How does a gun, for that matter,
fire? You need the correct amount
of oxygen coupled with gunpowder to fire the gun. Fire needs oxygen.
Try this, spray less aerosol
propellant into the chamber. If that does not work, after spraying
the aerosol
into the chamber, blow into the chamber for about three seconds
before capping. This should maximize
your range and efficiency. Remember, you need the correct fuel to
oxygen ratio when firing your
combustion cannon. If more power is what you are after, then try a
bigger chamber that will allow for a
greater ratio.
If you are having trouble with
the second or third time you fire your cannon, then you have a “gas
problem”
Yes, that’s right, you have a “gas problem” that Tums or Rolaids
cannot fix. Gas it what propels your
ammo through the air, and is created when the fuel and oxygen are
ignited. Try blowing into the chamber
to clear the remaining gases trapped inside your cannon. You may
want to think about a small fan that
runs on batteries that is mounted inside your chamber. However, I’ll
save that for another time.
If you have tried all of these
helpful hints and your gun still does not work, email us on the
Contact Us
section of the site with specific details of what you are doing and
what your gun’s symptoms are. We will
be glad to offer any insight to your specific issues. Who knows, we
may even post your problem, and our
answer on our site.
Some Helpful Questions
regarding your Sparker from "Spud Talk"
Do you know of a way to make some assembly
procedures easier? How about how to make a
better sparker. This is the place to share and
ask specific questions on design, assembly and
use of all types of spud guns.
I have the same question. a few bags of spuds
ago I built my first spud launcher. Combustion
model with spark plug in the chamber with grill
ignitor on the trigger. Inject hairspray(the
cheaper the better $1.99 can) close up the back,
press the trigger. Sometimes first time but a
lot of the times many pushes of the button
before it’ll fire. Anybody got any feed back? I
have a photo of the assembled unit if anybody’s
interested.
Well, Two Things about hairspray. One, it
will gum up the igniter. When the fuel in
the spray burns off, then the igniter and
the inside of your cannon, as well as, the
twist cap is left to deal with the sticky
residue. Ugh! A fix to this problem is that
most aerosols are lighter than air. So by
positioning you sparker at the top of the
cannon will make for an 75-77 percent
sparking to ignition ratio. that is if you
clean it every time. I have no problems with
mine. and I will explain in step Two. My
igniter is positioned on the bottom. What, I
just said to position it on the top? Well,
that is because I use right guard deoderant.
This fuel is heavier than air. You will find
that you ratio is much higher. I hope this
helps. If you do not want to spend the time
with fixing the postion of your igniter then
switching fuels is reccommended. Before you
do that, use warm water and soak the
interior of your cannon to get rid of the
gunky build up. Spray Starch is an option.
So is bug spray, however, that gives off
toxic fumes and is not conducive to firing
in doors. Just kidding regarding firing in
doors.
“You can find alternative methods to
fire a potato, such as, hybrid cannons and piston cannons at
www.spudfiles.com.“
What basic information should I know
about plastic pipe?
Common Terms of Plastics
“Originally
posted by Drac on the Spudtech forum and modified by”…Sqort87
from
LaunchPotatoes
“Helpful
Terms: NSF-PW: means that the pipe is pressure
rated. (PW=Potable Water)
XXX PSI: the pressure the pipe is rated
to.
DWV: Drain, Waste and Vent: safe for Combustions, not for
pneumatics.
Male NPT x Socket Weld: Adapter with male threads that fits over
a pipe by slipping on.
Female NPT X Socket Weld: Adapter with female threads that fits
over a pipe by slipping on.
NPT x Spigot: fits into a coupling, Tee, Adapter, or anything
that joins over pipe. Spigot fittings
have the same outer
diameter as the corresponding pipe.
PVC: Polyvinyl Chloride: Standard pipe, pressure rated but can
become brittle in the cold.
ABS: Acrylonitrile-Butadiene-Styrene: fine for combustions, but
not pressure rated so DON'T USE
IN PNEUMATICS!
Cellular Core: Very Unsafe. I wouldn't recommend to use it in
anything.”
To get some more helpful hints regarding plastics used in the
construction of
combustion or pneumatic cannons click on the link below. This is
great stuff.
You will not regret it.
Extreme Spud Master // April 1, 2008 at 7:01 pm